So, after 6 months of planning, gym work, kit buying, countless emails the plane lands at Ouarzazate, Morocco airport at 1.30am on Sunday 28th Feb - knowing that at 8.30 am our adventure would start the same day I was eager to get some rest.
I and three mates meet our fellow bikers, two Swedish guys & two other English riders with a mixture of experience
L-R - Malcolm, Svante, Me, Charlie, Ian, Steve, Ian & Neil (relaxing)
I knew the route would be gruelling and was described as strictly not for novices It would take us on a circular tour of Morocco starting and finishing in Ouarzazate covering approx 1300 km in total of which less than 150 would be tarmac. Some days we covered 300+ km across a varied mixture of terrains.
We head off fully kitted out Our first day covered approx 160km taking in twisty, dusty trails winding our way through the Anti-Atlas Mountains to our first stop at Agdaz - this was designed to ease us in!!
We awoke the next day not to bright sunshine of the hot desert but to heavy rain, wind & cold temperatures (I could get this in Devon), but being a hardened DTRF I came fully prepared with water proofs, Seal Skin socks and thermal under wear.....nice and toasty all day.
The heavy rain caused us other problems however The planned route had to be revised, the swollen and flash flood nature of the rivers meant we could easily get cut off by them and we had to ensure our next destination was achievable. We headed across the narrow trails winding along the Draa Valley turning north and cross a high pass over the Jebel Saghro Mountains Spectacular views everywhere. Very wet and muddy sand with flooded sections with a mixture of gravel and rocky trails.
We re-fuel and realise time was against us Our guide ex-Dakar racer, nicknamed Jonny F Moroc king of the dunes (F stands for well I leave that to you to guess) decided the group would split Three of us would complete the afternoon session with him off-road, some 90 odd km. This turned out to be without doubt the hardest ride I had ever been on. The other lads opted to follow the support truck along an easier route to our hotel stop.
We started off on our improvised route and encountered a serious desert badger Following at number two we rounded a fastish corner and our guide JFM simply disappeared from view - I realised straight away what had happened what was once a well worn trail had been washed away. JFM hadnt seen the gap in the trail until too late and launched the bike off a 8-10ft ledge into a hole some 30ft in length. Mild panic set in as I thought this was going to result in a serious injury at the very least. As I got off the bike to hurry to the scene, what greeted me was a waving rider already looking for the start button and advising us NOT to follow this way down! These guys are made differently to us mere mortals and it reinforced my opinion on how tough these KTMs are.
The next 40km where simply energy sapping small 1st & 2nd gear nadgery dunes where we all had at least one off. The energy sapped further by picking the bike up. Technique was a mix of standing & sitting, adopting a moto cross style leg out for the tight turns
With a 10 Minute breather completed - JFM led us on a 50-60km section of fast trail where our speeds reached 110kph standing on the pegs I can honestly say I have never ridden this fast off road for such a distance! We arrived at our hotel for a well earned beer with eyes still on stalks and adrenaline still pumping....amazing! The handshake from JFM said all; I think he thought we wouldnt keep with him.
Our route on the third day saw us heading towards the desert proper to reach an enormous dry lake bed followed by more winding sandy trails where we encountered our first dunes and a 20km traverse to reach the desert bivouac where we would spend the night under the stars.
The day was spent hooning (The only fitting word) around on the high dunes. This was the realisation of a long time dream and ambition. Technique mastered (Sometimes), weight back, sitting down (for a change), 2nd, 3rd & 4th gear to maintain momentum, steady throttle to ensure forward motion and avoid digging the bike in.
Incredible views of bikes roostering over the edges of dunes and riders enjoying the experience The mountainous Cathedral dune, some 125 metres high appeared nothing more than a huge wall of sand when approached head on keep it pinned and dont under or over shoot the crest was the advice! Going over the top could be dangerous, and risked nosing the bike headfirst into the down slope with the rider airborne superman style!
The following days were spent back on the trail completing large distances over a mixture of sandy trails, high speed plains, rocky river beds, and rocky trails, twisty tight and more bloody rocks - did I mention the rocks!!
My perception of Kilometres covered changed dramatically when after a typical lunch stop, it was announced we only had a further 70 km to go and that didnt sound too bad.
What of the bikes I hear you ask, well - we used KTM 450s and as a group suffered only two punctures, a cracked engine case (those bloody rocks again) which was repaired in the desert using liquid metal, two damaged wheel rims (rocks at high speed), one water flooded engine but most importantly.......NO BREAK DOWNS!!!
Our group didnt fair that well though Broken collar bone saw one of our Swedish friends endure a 5 hour ride back to civilisation in a Land Rover - ouch! One of my group also cracked a rib and didnt complete the last day. Otherwise we had a range of injuries, a swollen wrists, blisters, bruises, cuts and grazes, dehydration and a poorly toe nail - I faired ok with nothing more than a few aches and pains.
The sense of achievement for completing the tour was huge and was simply an adventure of a lifetime for me. I surprised myself to be honest and without doubt the fitness training I had completed stood me well whilst the terrain was technical & challenging the 6 days for 6-8 hours on the bounce really takes its toll.
Would I do it again.......too bloody right, it was the ultimate trail ride and the nearest I would get at feeling like a Dakar god (almost)!!
By the time I got back to blightey the tour guide JFM was readying himself for the next tour to host some bloke named Cyril Despreswho apparently is quite good on a bike.
What an adventure! Great report and pics. Having ridden in a bit of sand I can only imagine how hard it must be to master the technique for riding in those dunes
Thanks for sharing that with us and, yes, my guess is that l'orange would love a copy of it for a Newsletter