Ok i know its an open invitation to have a multiple answer to this thread but here goes.......
I've recently fitted a new o'ring 520 'D.I.D" Ktm 450 on 13 front teeth 48 rear (shouldn't make much difference with gearing) Yep i know its a pretty full on bike but i ride steady (90% of the time ) I've only done 3 rides, around 250 miles
Well i've noticed today on the above chain that the inside rollers are noticeably wobbly on quite a few of the rollers already
I have had the same problem with renthal (although i think they are made in the same place/factory)
Are chains getting more useless or is it me? (might regret asking that one)
Any ideas apart from selling my lovely bike?
oh i've priced an X ring chain and you can forget that one
So what do you all reckon then, is there a better make of chain out there? that would go the distance
Big bikes are always going to be heavy on chain sets particularly where the rider has a twitchy right hand
I use Renthal R3 chains and they last well - particularly since I refitted the chain guard which stopped the crud being thrown on the chain and chewed through the front sprocket!
The X ring DID is the same price as the R3 so may be worth trying?
I think a 13T front is too tight a turn, I went back to a 14T front and went up on the rear instead as I found 14T front sprockets seem to last longer than 13T ones - that also meant having 2 extra links in the chain to allow for the larger sprocket. Larger sprocket combs make the chain turn more but that reduces the torque - it might be "6 of one or half a dozen of the other" though as it's reduced the strain but increased the possible abrasion as the chain is moving faster.
Also I've noticed that a lot of the higher powered 450's I ridden with seem to lug more as the riders try to use the low down torque to find traction and control the power - that's got to be bad for the drive train as the engine is delivering large power pulses, you can actually hear the chain slapping around on the bike in front of you. This is not specific to any particular brand either. I try to never lug mine but change down to raise the engine revs as that gives smoother power delivery which is easier on the chain, sprockets, gearbox & clutch.
I get reasonable life out of my chain's & sprockets (apart from the last one as I went for a cheap O-ring chain just to see what the difference was - won't be doing that again!)
DID X-rings are worth the extra money in my opinion. I have not had to adjust mine in three rides since fitting, which is a pleasure after needing adjustment every ride with the useless cheapo Issa chain CCM fitted as standard, (lasted 3000 miles). I found 13 tooth front sprockets wear chains out very fast and it is worth getting a longer chain and a larger rear sprocket so you can use 14 tooth or larger. The small sized 13 tooth asks too much of the chain.
I went from 13/50 to 14/54 and it helps chain life. I stick to renthal r3 now and get around 2500 miles to a set. I tried the did x ring but found it no better than the r3.
The other bonus is a 14t front lasts the life of the chain where i needed 2 x 13t.
Rich and Pete offer some good advise there Ian. I would never go below 14t on the front either. Lugging it will destroy any chain in no time. I would also check your chain guide and rollers. If one of them is bent it will kill a chain. Same goes with swingarm bearings and rear wheeel bearings.
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Politicians are like nappies. They need changing often, and usually for the same reason.
I changed mine from 14/48 to 13/49 to lighten the front end, just been into Albion and gone for 14/52 - too much chain slap on a 13 tooth front and my RK HD Gold chain is stretching prematurely.
And the rear sprocket is an orange stealth one! Best hide the receipt from the wife now!
Renthal R3 it is then, I am also going back up to a 14 t ooth front and up a couple of teeth up on the back. I agree that 13 is just too small and gives the chain a hard time. Forgot to mention my bike is a CCM 404.(DRZ motor).
Hmm.....Do ya think thats what could've happened to mine??? Its not very old and adjusted regular!! Just as well I checked it over otherwise I would've had a bit of a headache on the next ride!!
-- Edited by Shaggy on Tuesday 29th of March 2011 08:01:42 PM
I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?
I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?
Albion seemed confident that I had the right bits - they picked them out for me, I'll let you know on Sunday!
I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?
I'm going 14 - 50 (does that sound like a holiday club thing oh know thats 18-30)
i've got 48 on at the moment bob but a 50 would fit as it wouldn't add much to the diameter and the lower chain guide has 2 bolt holes to lower it to accommodate a bigger sprocket, check your on it mate
I run a 15 / 47 and if its more than adequate for pretty much anything I have found on a on a green lane, fast or slow? Dave's running a 15/44 and doesn't even feel the need to change to 47 on the rear?
You'll just reduce your road speed? And a smaller front sprocket are know to eat chains?
Sorry to ask the question but I'm interested in the reasons for using the ratios and then having to mod the bike to make it fit?
-- Edited by kevinred on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 08:01:49 PM
Sorry to ask the question but I'm interested in the reasons for using the ratios and then having to mod the bike to make it fit?
It all depends what you use the bike for as well.
mine is purely for trail riding the only tarmac i ride is between lanes.and on muddy knobblys i dont need much speed.
i was running 13/50 but changed to 14/54 to keep the same ratio but improve chain/sprocket life.
i like the low first gear as i can ride at slow walking pace with the clutch fully out giving me great slow speed control and a good clutch life (the clutch on my WR has never been touched)
I run a 15 / 47 and if its more than adequate for pretty much anything I have found on a on a green lane, fast or slow? Dave's running a 15/44 and doesn't even feel the need to change to 47 on the rear?
Each and every bike is different and so is the ratios IN the gearbox itself!! 15/47 (for example) maybe brilliant on one bike yet not so good on another. At the end of the day, its all about riding preference and what works!!
I can also ride at a very slow walking pace with the clutch fully out on the DRZ with 15/47.
Guss it all depends on the bike and the riders needs.
I'm learning by trial and error and thoroughly enjoying it.
Thanks for the replies to my questions
I don't know how your getting away with your gearing Kev.
The standard DRZ E gearing of 14/47 is better but I still found I was slipping the clutch far too often. After some experimentation I finally settled on 14/49 - this gives the right amount of control for the really tricky lanes but still some decent 5th gear road speed.
You need to run the stealth sprockets on as long a chain as possible because it's the metal dowels that fowl the chain block, so you need to spin your chain adjuster block round so that the longest lobe is against the chain tension adjuster and run the longest chain you can with minimal adjustment left, or as roger said move your chain block forward, I run 13/52 and on the next chain I will be running a 14 tooth front for definite.
You need to run the stealth sprockets on as long a chain as possible because it's the metal dowels that fowl the chain block, so you need to spin your chain adjuster block round so that the longest lobe is against the chain tension adjuster and run the longest chain you can with minimal adjustment left, or as roger said move your chain block forward, I run 13/52 and on the next chain I will be running a 14 tooth front for definite.
Cheers Clayton, just one issue - I have my new chain shortened.
May have to keep the stealth sprocket for next time.
Fitted the supersrox 50T, just slightly fouling the back of the stud in the chain guide, gently filing by hand is no good as it will still be too close.
If I can get another RK link then all is well, otherwise, back to aluminium until I replace the chain.
-- Edited by nickpdo on Thursday 31st of March 2011 07:25:55 PM
I'm sure if you ask nicely some one on here will have a chain link riveting tool, then if you use the one that came with your RK chain, you can safely go back to a full length.