I had a brand new heavy duty tube that the valve Seal split when I put air in it stamped on the side made in Romania lesson learnt michy only now never had an issue with one of them
These tubes were off a pair of wheels from someone else's TTR. They didn't have the usual rub marks that you get with HD tubes so hadn't been moving inside the tyre.
I always oval my valve holes to let me see if the tyre is creeping around - doesn't everyone
TTR
Seems not, plus lots of riders use the knurled nut tight to the rim, i put a piece of 6mm deep rubber hose the same inner diameter as the valve stem to the rim and then use the knurled nut on the top of the rubber hose lightly tightened, the rubber hose keeps the crud from getting into the rim area. This also allows the valve to flex slightly without straining.
-- Edited by doug9270 on Friday 11th of October 2013 07:37:22 AM
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Took the Queens Shilling and disappeared for 23 Years !!
Both front and rear tubes were Michelin I think Rich. Very upsetting for two to go at once
I am going to stick with inexpensive skinny tubes. Easy to fit and cheap to replace
Thats what i do, i do not go too cheap just a good make, i think the HD Tubes dont get much room to move, i take it you have done the 'open the valve hole a bit' ?
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Took the Queens Shilling and disappeared for 23 Years !!
Both front and rear tubes were Michelin I think Rich. Very upsetting for two to go at once
I am going to stick with inexpensive skinny tubes. Easy to fit and cheap to replace
Thats what i do, i do not go too cheap just a good make, i think the HD Tubes dont get much room to move, i take it you have done the 'open the valve hole a bit' ?
These tubes were off a pair of wheels from someone else's TTR. They didn't have the usual rub marks that you get with HD tubes so hadn't been moving inside the tyre.
I always oval my valve holes to let me see if the tyre is creeping around - doesn't everyone
I have only had one valve pull out ever and I always run HD tubes. There was apparently a bad batch around at the time as several other members had the same problem too.
I think continuing to ride once punctured will do this most times before you get too far though. After suffering a puncture a couple of weeks ago just a half a mile short of our intended lunch stop I considered running on flat to do the work there but decided against it for fear of pulling the valve out.
i put a piece of 6mm deep rubber hose the same inner diameter as the valve stem to the rim and then use the knurled nut on the top of the rubber hose lightly tightened, the rubber hose keeps the crud from getting into the rim area. This also allows the valve to flex slightly without straining.
I use these valve seals. Cheap enough and allow the valve to "rock" and give early warning of any problems.
They also keep water out of the ovalled valve hole so it's all nice and dry inside when you need to change a tyre or whatever
I haven't ovel'd out my valve holes, in fact I swap the hole (with the rim lock) each time the tyre comes off - is this a bad thing?
I can't remember ever ripping a valve off but then I don't run super low pressure - 12 psi min.
I guess Doug and I are "old school" Rich and just do what we were taught when we were young 'uns
You may have been lucky as the problem with the standard round valve hole is that it gives absolutely no warning of tyre creep and the first you know about it is the valve has ripped out. For the sake of a few minutes with a round file I think it's worth doing.
I also use these seals to hopefully stop water getting in, but I don't fit the lock nut at all.
I was told that if you get any tyre creep, it'll try to move the tube with it and if you are using the valve lock nut wound down tight, the risk is of tearing the stem out of the tube. Without the lock nut, you'll just get the valve leaning over as a warning of creep, especially if you've ovaled the hole in the rim.
I run two Talon rim locks so don't get any tyre creep at all, even at very low psi in my Vee Rubber Ultra HD tubes. 4 years on the same tube so far (that's done it).
Tyre locks, more than 1, or Tubliss + if punctured in the casing then the usual jalop you stick in will actually seal a thorn or nail hole?
If punture not sortable, then you can get home with flat tyre because the tyre wil not come off the bead.
Tubliss, infinitely better than 2 tyre locks, HD tube or mooses. Usually means the wheels are far better balanced, just smoother and although not relevant here, far lighter.
It also means the tyres behave as the manufacturer intended, which once mooses are more than a couple of months old, do not.
I raced with mooses for years, but then they brought out Tubliss - absolutely no comparison + cheaper than mooses.
I guess Doug and I are "old school" Rich and just do what we were taught when we were young 'uns
You may have been lucky as the problem with the standard round valve hole is that it gives absolutely no warning of tyre creep and the first you know about it is the valve has ripped out. For the sake of a few minutes with a round file I think it's worth doing.
TTR
I dunno - maybe the hole in the DRZ wheels is larger than most... I can see if a tyre has slipped as the valve stem looks slightly slanted so there is room for some slippage without damaging the valve stem.
The reason I switch holes is that the rim area under the rim lock always holds water & crud and looks like it rots the rim out, I like to give the whole rim a good clean out and then switch position to spread the rot & slow it's progress, that is if I can remember which hole was used previously when I come to put it back together.
always holds water & crud and looks like it rots the rim out, I like to give the whole rim a good clean out and then switch position to spread the rot & slow it's progress
Thats why I wear my pants backwards on the 2nd day......