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Devon TRF Group Open Forum -> General Discussion Board -> Garage Door Security
Post Info TOPIC: Garage Door Security
RichT4


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Garage Door Security
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I'm just wondering which system would keep the door most secure whilst still being functional...

I can access the garage through a rear door so the additional door locks can be internal only.

I'm thinking of installing 4off padlock bolts like these.

If this is a good idea what would be the best mounting pattern of the 2 examples I've drawn?

Door bolts.JPG

 

I had experience with garage thieves at a previous house but after installing padlocked hasps on the bottom of the door (to the ground) the door has survived several attempts. This time I don't want the locks to be exposed on the outside though so I'm looking for a different method.

Also I like the idea of a stealthy door.., so no extra locks visible from the outside.

Will either of the fixing patterns above survive a heavy attack - like trying the bend the door inwards to flex it?

Maybe this type of lock would be better as it can't be 'popped' out of it hole?

I'd like to avoid having to drill into the garage floor if I can so securing to the frame would be best.

So... what do you guys think??



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Nige


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Can't you just park the van against the door?


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RichT4


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I do when I'm home but it's for when I'm away.

TBH it's a pretty safe area, very well lit & visible driveway... but I'd just feel better knowing the door has additional security.



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jt


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DH006300__00004_thumb.jpg

Easy to undo just bend out round the padlock hmm even done it with my fingers or a key.....

 

Galvanised-Heavy-Duty-Hasp-amp-Staple-178mm_500_3H5AE.jpg?height=279&width=428&scale=both

Better especially if you mount it at 90 deg so the door shuts over the fixing holes.

 

 

 

 



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Tim


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Bung one of these on while you've got your toolbox out:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391042683163?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$_12.JPG

Not tried it myself but there's something oddly appealling about the thought of pikey scum with soiled undergarments.

confuse



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ttr steve


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Don't they all have soiled undergarments anywaybiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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gaschef


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Tim wrote:

Bung one of these on while you've got your toolbox out:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391042683163?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2661&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$_12.JPG

Not tried it myself but there's something oddly appealling about the thought of pikey scum with soiled undergarments.

confuse

Sold by yours truly at Beer Dive and Guns, and yes soiled underwear is one result, along with perforated eardrums and temporary deafness. Good bits of kit. However you do need to tell the missus it is armed, or you will probably be the one with soiled underwear etc. whether you tell the mother in law or not is up to you 



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RichT4


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jt wrote:

DH006300__00004_thumb.jpg

Easy to undo just bend out round the padlock hmm even done it with my fingers or a key..... 

 

This will be inside of the garage door JT - no way to get to it unless they are already in, which they shouldn't be.

I take your point about bending the catch part, so if a scrote did get in then they'd be able to open to door from inside...

The other option I'd considered was installing a pair of Enfield keyed bolts (inside access only)

That way without the key your stuffed... unless you have tools to undo the both that is... which you would have.... so I'd have to fit tamper proof nuts...

All good stuff... I'm working through the thought process... keep it coming please



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fatbaz


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18mm ply bolted to the inside of the door to stiffen it up from it being pried open

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shack


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where abouts are you attaching the ply?
I used to have one of those alarm padlocks and infra red motion detectors both just battery jobbies. just have a couple of extra padlocks and nosey neighbours these days.

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cee-b


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RichT4 wrote:

Maybe this type of lock would be better as it can't be 'popped' out of it hole?

I'd like to avoid having to drill into the garage floor if I can so securing to the frame would be best.

So... what do you guys think??

 I used this type and to avoid having to drill the door I reinforced the door with about a 6" deep strip of ply along the top, bottom and edges so the door won't flex and then attached them to the ply. The ply is fastened to the door with a goodly quantity of Gripfill (any 'industrial strength' building adhesive will do)

Col

ps love the idea of the trip-wire blank firer - I'm gonna get me one o' those



-- Edited by cee-b on Wednesday 11th of February 2015 10:36:52 AM

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doug9270


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I am sure we have been here before. Any thief will attempt to steal you hard earned possessions its really down to how resourceful they are.

A determined thief will take your possessions whatever you do to stop them as long as they have TIME

So let make it as difficult as possible, more deterrents the better.

Alarms, Padlocks, Reinforced doors, Reinforced Roofs, Non lethal electrical cordons, live web cams and Ex War dogs !!! you get the message make it as difficult as possible.

In an attempt to steal/disassemble from a well fortified house/garage/store will create noise alerting you neighbours/public.

Oh and one last thing, do not advertise that you have valuables (bikes) down the pub loose tongues and all that. 

20131023044300a0dm27wvkvwxedvf.jpg



-- Edited by doug9270 on Wednesday 11th of February 2015 08:23:43 AM

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Jerry atterick


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If a normal garage door, then a good yank in the middle pulls it out, ie away from the frame on the sides.
So bolts can easily pop out - trust me, it doesnt take much.
Frame to wall needs to be rag bolts, not screws - the norm.
2 or 4 over centre clamps tie door to frame so wont pull away.
Over centre clamp, think flatbed wagon sides.
Not dear, if you look in the right place.


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RichT4


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My plan now is to use 2 of these drilled & rawl bolting into the floor.

This is what I have externally at another house and it works, it's what the Police advised me to do after my garage was broken into. My garage has been tried since and this method holds up fine. The door can be 'popped' away at the top & out of it's guide but will just lean backwards and still can't be raised.

I will reinforce the door with ply though (top & bottom) as that seems a good idea. I was planning on insulating the door as well so may end up ply lining the whole door.wink





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Jerry atterick


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Logic sounds good.
Ive used 50mm polystyrene to line the doors and workshop roof - total transformation!
Cellotex etc is better but 20xs more expensive.
Minster Insulation provided mine.


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fatbaz


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attach the ply to rear of door bolted every 2 or 300mm 



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russell11031967


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I got two motion sensors alarms plus a ground bolt inside and extra bolts on the door plus a Land Rover parked tight up against the door, not sure what else I can do, but I do like the idea of a shotgun cartridgebiggrinbiggrin I may have to invest in thisbiggrinbiggrin



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Kwaka Geoff


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127db 'Master Blaster' siren. When this frekker goes off EVERYONE within 1/2 mile will know about it ;0). (Comes recommended from a fellow rider of the South Wales Trail Riders club, where bike theft seems somewhat more prolific than down these parts)

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RichT4


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fatbaz wrote:

attach the ply to rear of door bolted every 2 or 300mm 

So you bolt it just round the edges of the door I guess, as that's the only part that will be in contact with the ply?

Capture.JPG

 

 



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fatbaz


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i have not done this its just a idea i have had and will do myself when a decent garage becomes availble
but yes just like your drawing but i would clad the whole door and if you insulating it aswell then you would be able to put more fixings on

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